An important note for all travelers, whether arriving by car, bus, or plane...
A passport is required for legal entry into Mexico and to obtain a Tourist Permit. It is also required for reentry to the US.
The method for getting the Tourits Permit requires filling out a form — the FMM — and how you do that will depend on how you are traveling. Tourist Permits allow you to stay in Mexico for a maximum of 180 days, and there is a fee which you pay on site to get the permit (around 500 pesos). However, IF YOU WILL BE IN MEXICO FOR FEWER THAN SEVEN DAYS, you will NOT need to pay the fee. A Tourist Permit is valid for a single entry into and exit out of Mexico. You will return it when you leave the country, at the same place you got it. If you want to return to Mexico, you will need to get a new Tourist Permit.
Watch for details on how to obtain the Tourist Permit below under each method of travel.
BY AIR
• Fill out the tourist permit application (called an FMM and supplied on the airplane) before arrival at Hermosillo airport.
• Rental cars are available at the airport, or…
• Catch the hourly ‘Costa’ bus on the main highway at the bus stop by the OXXO store right in front of the airport. (Only some buses stop here. Don't believe the taxi drivers who tell you no buses will stop.) The bus costs 120 pesos (+/- $8US). Buses stop in Miguel Aleman (also called Calle Doce), about mid-point of trip. Some busses continue to Kino, but you may need to transfer to another bus. Ask the bus driver. The last Costa bus of the day passes the airport shortly after 6:00 p.m.; so if you happen to arrive after that, you may want either to 1) stay in a hotel in Hermosillo overnight and take a morning bus out, or 2) hire a secure taxi at the airport to drive you to Kino, which may cost you about as much as a hotel room! Ask help from the taxi people at the airport to make the best arrangement.
BY BUS
• Large TUFESA and TAP express buses depart from Tucson. Check the internet for terminal addresses and phone numbers in Tucson. There are usually many buses leaving daily; check the bus web sites for schedules. About 6 hours to Hermosillo; movies onboard. Cost +/- $45US one-way to Hermosillo. These buses do not offer the opportunity to fill out an FMM application to obtain your Tourist Permit. It is your responsibility to get it from a Mexican consulate or online before getting on the bus.
• "Super Shuttle" 13-passenger Mercedes Benz small bus between Tucson and Hermosillo. Around $45. The number in Tucson is (520) 807-4210. Carry your passport to reenter the US. Fill out the tourist permit application on the bus, before arrival at the km 21 checkpoint, south of Nogales. Shuttles run from Tucson daily at 8:15 a.m., 11:45 a.m., and 5:45 p.m. (no 5:45 p.m. bus on Saturday). You do need to secure your tickets ahead of time.
• Once in Hermosillo, take a taxi to Costa bus station for hourly bus service to Kino. Cost is 120 pesos (+/- $8US). Buses stop in Miguel Aleman (also called Calle Doce), about mid-point of trip, and you MAY transfer to another bus; some go directly to Kino. Ask the bus driver.
BY CAR
Meet the people, see the landscape, feel the mystery that is Mexico. We travel these roads on a regular basis without incident, but it can be adventurous to drive in Mexico because the signs are all in Spanish and some things are done differently here. Just relax and make the most of it.
• Gasoline. Costs in Mexico may be a bit higher than in US; available in Magna (regular) and Premium; no middle grade available. Diesel commonly available. Pemex stations are clean and well-maintained, with clean restrooms. Sometimes credit cards are accepted; usually they require cash.
• Tucson to Nogales, AZ on I-19. Few billboards, lots of natural landscaping, many scenic attractions (San Javier del Bac Mission, Tubac Presidio, Tumacacori Nat’l Hist. Park). All I-19 mileage markers are in kilometers.
(You can double click on any image to see a larger version.)
• Near the border. A large sign advises tourists that firearms and ammunition are prohibited in Mexico without special permits.
• Truck Bypass exit. Take first Nogales exit on right, around kilometer (km) 4 or 5 north of Nogales. Clearly marked, but it's right around a bend behind a hill. Easiest way to enter Mexico, with least traffic. (Or continue to where the freeway ends in downtown Nogales and go through the old crossing.)
• On the Bypass exit ramp. Turn right; go straight to border. There are franchise restaurants and a Holiday Inn Express. Best to cross by 10:00 a.m. so you’re refreshed and have time to deal with paperwork and get to Hermosillo and/or Kino well before dark. If you need gas or diesel: large Shell station at the border on left just before you cross over from US side; large Pemex station on left about 10 to 15 miles south, just before the km 21 Tourist Checkpoint.
AT THE BORDER
• The Border Crossing at Nogales is open from 6:00 a.m.to 10:00 p.m.
• After crossing the border into Mexico, don't stop at the commercial checkpoint on the right for truckers bringing goods into the country. Follow the road bypassing Nogales, Mexico.
• First "Caseta de Cobro" (Toll Booth) on this road costs 74 pesos (as of January 2018). This one accepts U.S. money; you'll receive change in pesos), but you'll need pesos at the other Casetas and at businesses in Mexico.
• The first Mexican checkpoint is for Customs. (This NOT where you do your Tourist Permit paperwork. See below.) As you pass through, chose the "Nothing to Declare" or "Nada que declarer" line. You will get a red or a green light (it's a random system). If it flashes red, they might ask you to stop so they can check your vehicle for anything illegal; or they can just wave you through. If they stop you, it's usually not a big deal. They look a few things over and send you on your way. Tip: At any checkpoint (US, Mexican, etc.) be relaxed and friendly; don’t offer too much; answer questions in a simple, direct way. Be pleasant and patient, you have nothing to hide. A little friendliness and respect goes a long way, and can save you a lot of grief.
• The Second Toll (at Magdalena de Kino) is 25 pesos, and the last one (just before Hermosillo) is 52 pesos.
• ATMs are how local expats get their pesos (not at money exchange houses) - You get pesos at the official rate at any ATM by using your credit or debit card. The maximum is usually between 5,000 and 8,000 pesos per day, depending on the ATM and any limits that may be set by your bank. There are two ATMs in Kino.
IMPORTANT: Mexico also uses the dollar sign for their currency. Amounts on the ATMs are shown in pesos, not dollars! If you punch in 300, expecting to get 300 dollars worth of pesos, you will get only 300 pesos. The current exchange rate (February 2018) is around 18 pesos per dollar, so do your calculations before you punch in the number. And don’t forget your PIN – called a NIP (“neep”) down here.
THE TOURIST CHECKPOINT
The Nogales bypass road merges into Mexican highway 15. After about 11 more kilometers you’ll come to the Tourist Check-in Station.
STOP HERE TO GET TOURIST PERMITS.
• Any U.S. or Canadian citizen traveling in Mexico must have:
1) A Tourist Permit (Passport required). You must fill out the application (called an FMM) at the checkpoint to get a Tourist Permit! Here is where you will fill out the FMM application and get your Permit. The process is not difficult but may seem confusing the first time; personnel are usually very patient and helpful.
2) Mexican car insurance for the time you will be in Mexico. For your own protection, be sure you are covered and will get the help you need from Mexican authorities should you have an accident. Insurance is available at KM 21. Or you might want to purchase insurance before crossing the border. There is a very reliable provider at Don Smith Insurance at 475 W Mariposa Road in Nogales, AZ, just east of the I-19 Freeway exit.
At the Tourist check-in area there is sometimes a very nice young person who speaks good English waiting to explain how to do everything. They don’t expect a tip, although you may wish to tip someone in the parking lot a dollar (or 20 pesos) to watch your car. There’s usually also someone who wants to wash your windows for 10 pesos.
ABOUT AUTO PERMITS:
• Hassle Free Zone. A large portion of Sonora is a ‘Hassle Free Zone,’ meaning you no longer need a temporary vehicle permit (with exceptions for tow vehicles and trailers). This zone extends just past Guaymas and includes San Carlos, Hermosillo, Kino Bay, Magdalena, Santa Ana and points west. (See map.)
• Solo Sonora (Only Sonora). If you plan to travel south of Guaymas (even though this area is still inside Sonora), you will need a Temporary Importation Permit (TIP). A TIP can be obtained ONLY through Mexico's Banjercito government agency. You may apply online for the TIP at: https://www.banjercito.com.mx/registroVehiculos/#.
• All Mexico Vehicle Permit. If you plan to drive outside of Sonora, farther into Mexico, you will need an all-Mexico permit, also available through Banjercito. Details can be found at: https://www.mexpro.com/mexico/vehicle-import-permit.html
THE ROAD TO HERMOSILLO
• Beware of SERIOUS, axle-busting speed bumps in almost every "area de poblacion" (populated area). Warning paint is sometimes worn off! You are usually warned by a yellow sign with black bumps and the word "TOPES," (pronounced “toe – pays”) and indicating how many meters ahead. Often there are people selling interesting items at the topes, or collecting for a school or the ‘Cruz Roja’ (Red Cross).
• Speed limits are in kilometers. Multiply by .62 to convert to miles. “VELOCIDAD MAXIMA 100 Kilómetros” means 62 mph; 90kph is about 55mph. (Easy method: divide km. by 5 and multiply by 3 to get miles. Example: 100 km/5 = 20 x 3 = 60 miles.) Honor the speed limits, even if others don't. It's easier to avoid the hassles.
• Green Angels. The State of Sonora has a program to help tourists who break down along the highway. The ‘Green Angels’ cruise this road, and sometimes the one to Kino, in green trucks loaded with many car parts (fan belts, spark plugs, etc.). They do their best to get you going again for free.
• Mexican highway 15 to Hermosillo. Divided four lane toll road. This road is currently undergoing major improvements, so there may be detours; it still has very narrow or no shoulders in some areas. Drive with care.
(At Imuris, a narrow sinuous road leads eastward through the mountains toward the mining town of Cananea and to the border at Agua Prieta, or Naco. It is an alternate route for going to and from the border that is still within the Hassle Free Zone; but it also can be very treacherous, with heavy truck traffic. Know what you're doing before you take it.)
Highway 15 bypasses Magdalena de Kino; there is a Caseta de Cobros (Toll Booth) at Magdalena. The next town is Santa Ana, a good place to stop for a lunch break. At the big intersection, bear left (a right turn takes you to Mexicali). At the top of the hill, on your right, the Restaurant Elba has good, inexpensive food; secure parking area with an attendant.
Give him 10 pesos for watching the car. You can also get a car wash and oil change while you eat. The Elba Hotel, next door, is clean, comfortable, and inexpensive, with parking inside a well-lit fenced area.
• Next stop, Hermosillo – about 90 miles away. Only a few small towns and Pemex stations (with clean restrooms) along the way. Highway is continually being upgraded. Traffic volume is generally moderate.
• The toll road ends just a few miles before Hermosillo at the last Caseta de Cobro.
--------------------------------------------
WELCOME TO HERMOSILLO
This route takes you through the middle of Hermosillo:
• The highway becomes a wide tree-lined boulevard called BLVD. EUSEBIO KINO. It goes through the Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone) and makes a long arc to the left toward the center of town. There are Bancomer, Banamex, and Banco Santander branches where you can pay your tourist fee (during the week) or get pesos at an ATM.
• When BLVD. EUSEBIO KINO curves left and becomes BLVD. RODRIGUEZ (see map below), move to the right-hand lane. Watch for a shopping center on the right with a prominent Carl's Junior sign and a large, green overhead sign reading BAHIA DE KINO, pointing you right onto Avenida NAYARIT. Stay on NAYARIT until it ends, after about a mile. Move to the middle lane before it joins with BLVD. LUIS ENCINAS at an angle, then flow (like water) with the traffic. In Mexico, don't expect others to stop and let you in. It could happen, but it usually doesn't. Driving here is a competitive sport; you yield, you lose points. Drive straight west on BLVD. LUIS ENCINAS, which becomes Garcia Morales, to Kino Bay.
NOTE: You can click on this map (and the other) and it will pop up larger. You can then save it on your computer and print it out to carry with you.
• At the intersection with BLVD. SOLIDARIDAD there are shopping centers on the left and right, if you need supplies before getting to Kino.
• On BLVD. LUIS ENCINAS, follow signs toward the AEROPUERTO and onward on Garcia Morales to BAHIA DE KINO!
There are a couple of alternate routes that do not go throughout the main part of the city:
A WORD ABOUT SPEED:
The route to Kino is heavily policed (especially on weekends), and you should stick to the speed limits. Be particularly careful on Garcia Morales until you're past the airport. There are several school zones, and speed limits change back and forth from 60 to 45 to 40 (that's kilometers, not miles, per hour!). The police are notorious for stopping tourists here. So be careful that you are not vulnerable. Go slower than the other cars.
---------------
THE ROAD TO KINO
It's best to leave Hermosillo no later than about 3:00 pm (4:00 pm in the summer) as the road travels due west; late in the afternoon the sun will be in your eyes. This road has recently been widened and repaved, so there are good markings most of the way. However, the middle line is sometimes very faint or non-existent and there’s often no white line along the edge (two common conditions in Mexico). When in doubt, it doesn't hurt to slow down, or even pull off someplace and wait till the sun goes below the horizon. Be careful and make sure your windshield is clean, inside and out.
If it's late, you might stay at a hotel in Hermosillo and make a fresh start in the morning (good choices: the Hotel Bugambilia in the Zona Hotelera, the Hotel San Angel near Blvd. Solidaridad, and the Royal Palace, just past the Hotel San Angel.). Do not drive after dark! It can be dangerous, with animals, pedestrians in dark clothing, and cars with poor or no headlights on the highway.
The Kino road is straight across the desert flats, past a small volcanic mountain range, with a few curves along the way. You’ll pass the airport on your right just outside Hermosillo, then broad fields of vegetables, large vineyards, pecan orchards and orange groves. The road goes directly to Kino Bay, with side roads leading off to the north and south (including a back road to Guaymas at kilómetro 52 that's been recently improved).
MIGUEL ALEMAN (CALLE DOCE)
The road to Kino passes through only one other town – Miguel Aleman, also called Calle Doce – a dusty, hard-working desert town with trucks and colorful little shops on both sides of the main street, people walking across the road, kids walking to school in uniforms and backpacks, cowboys, farmers – a real street scene. If you have time, take a short break and enjoy life in rural Mexico.
There's an ATM in Miguel Aleman on your left at a Bancomer, about halfway through the town, and others inside the Super del Norte supermarket on the right side, across the street from the Bancomer. (We also have two ATMs in Kino.) The Super del Norte is also a good supermarket with fruit, vegetables, groceries of all kinds, and a nice selection of wine and liquor, though you can find most of what you need right in Kino.
The drive from Hermosillo to Kino takes about 1 1/2 hours. The most comfortable speed is about 60 to 65 mph. The 2-lane road has very wide shoulders. Watch for people on foot or on bicycles on their way home from work, and don't be in a hurry.
BAHIA DE KINO
A large sign over the highway will announce your arrive in Bahía de Kino — the part known as Kino Viejo (Old Kino). Very soon after that, you with see a street that goes off to the right at an angle, and in the corner sits the Mediterraneo Supermarket. It is the best in Kino, so you might want to check it out.
There is one stop light in Kino, and to the left at that corner is a Pemex station, in case you need to fill up. After the stop light, continue straight ahead, and the road curves to the right up a small hill. The view from the top of the hill shows Kino Nuevo (New Kino) stretched out along a beautiful 7-mile beach with Isla Tiburon as a large mountain range backdrop in the distance.
MILEAGE FROM the STOP LIGHT in KINO VIEJO:
• At 1 mile – La Playa RV Hotel on the left and La Posada Hotel on the right. Start watching here for the numbered electric posts along the street. Our house is across the street from pole #159, so you can watch the numbers as you drive, because the house numbering system here is creative, to say the least, and you can't rely on those as a guide.
• At 2 miles – Palapas (thatched shade shelters) line the beach, La Palapa restaurant and La Cobacha restaurant, all on the left. On weekends there will usually be lots of people and vendors at this spot. Drive slowly and watch for kids.
• At 2.6 miles – Tienda ‘Super Juliana’ on the right.
• At 3.4 miles – Taco Bar on the right.
• At 4.1 miles – El Pargo Rojo restaurant on the right, bright red, large sign.
• At 4.5 miles – Casa Tortuga on the left, just past the Punta Chueca road. Again, it's across the street from electric pole #159. The address (2645) is painted on the garage, and "Casa Tortuga" over the mail box (buzón) to the left of our entry. We have two off-street parking spots in front for renters and guests.
• If you go past us, you’ll see the Super Bahía Kino grocery store at 4.7 miles on the right, and you’ll know you’ve gone too far!
WELCOME to CASA TORTUGA!