Cousin Sally asked other brave cousins to join her for an adventure into the heart of Mexico. Actually, the Mexico part didn’t require much courage since you’re probably safer here than in the gun-totin’ US, as long as you avoid Mexican politics and the drug business. No, the ‘brave’ part was being willing to spend a couple of intense weeks with a bunch of cousins and two long-suffering spouses.
Carolyn and I have often invited all the cousins to visit us, but negative propaganda in the US made visits rare. Finally, four cousins, and Larry, flew into Tucson and took the Tufesa bus south to Hermosillo – it’s much cheaper than airfare across the border. They rented a van and drove to Kino Bay just in time for a cold margarita and a glorious sunset.
They’d have plenty of beach time and little of the usual ’tourist stuff,’ as our remote corner of Mexico doesn’t have that Cancún, Cozumel, and Cabo atmosphere.
In the morning, Seris were selling fine baskets and other goods on the veranda as the Sea of Cortez glistened in the background. Then we hired a panga to see the birds (cousin Carolyn’s and Larry’s passion) and sea lions on nearby Isla Pelícano, and the anchored shrimping boats.
That night we ate at ‘Paradise,’ Cristina’s funky-wonderful restaurant under an old shrimp boat. Our friends Jim and Nancy enjoyed pizzas and red wine with us. And outside was a star-filled sky, with spectacular Scorpio visible to the south.
In the morning there were more Seris with goods to sell, and more swimming to enjoy. And that evening we shared a delicious ‘pescado saradeado prepared by our good friend Zana at his roadside shack. After dinner, we broke out the tequila and filled cups all around, and Zana told us of his days diving in the Sea with the Cousteau team.
And then we were off for points south, after an ATM stop. San Carlos, a favorite for retiring Gringos and visitors from southern Arizona, is about 2 hours from Kino Bay. Unlike Kino, they have a nice marina, a few high-rises, and a distinctive mountain named “Tetas de Cabra,” or “Goat Tits.”
Like Kino, they also have the beautiful orioles found in this area. I took this picture on another trip and forgot to show it to cousin Carolyn.
Next was the historic city of Álamos, about six hours from Kino. The colonial mansions, cobble-stone streets, and great food make this charming old silver-mining town a favorite of ours. El Pedregal is a quiet, beautiful place just outside of town, where cousin Carolyn and Larry could indulge their bird passion and collect a few more for their ‘Life Lists.’ By day we wandered the quaint streets of Álamos and shopped in nearby La Aduana, and Kent got his picture taken with a bunch of cute girls on vacation from Ciudad Obregón. What a charmer, that Kent!
That night we felt like royalty while hanging out at the bar at the famous Los Santos (500 different Tequilas!) and dining on their beautiful veranda.
It was a short drive onward to old El Fuerte, and our brightly-painted rooms overlooking the river. The hotel was a bit funky, but Chal was an excellent host. He and his brother Felipe provided all the river drifting, bird-watching, petroglyphing and native dancing we could have wanted. And they gave us plenty of fine food and icy drinks every evening.
After our second night we left for the train station to catch the morning Chihuahua al Pacifico (the “Chepe”) into the heart of Copper Canyon country. It’s truly one of the great train rides of the world, with spectacular views around every corner, 86 tunnels, and some amazing engineering as it rises over 2400 meters (7800 ft) from Los Mochis on the coast. This was the second visit to the Canyon for Carolyn and me and it was well worth seeing again.
The view from Maria’s cliff-perched castle-hotel at Barrancas was worth the trip, and so was the food. We spent the next day with Jorge seeing everything else that was nearby, including the cable cars that dangle above the canyons, and the extreme bike tracks far below. And the distinctive Tarahumara people and their crafts are as important as the scenery. Jorge was unbothered by the “No Parking” sign clearly visible over his shoulder, and Cousin Carolyn even saw another bird. My favorite birds arrive on a plate with vegetables, but I persevered.
After two days we were back on the train heading for Creel, in the piney autumnal woods at the top of the line, with two snoozing Carolyns. A quaint lodge, pitchers of margaritas, and a friendly fire helped take the chill off. Javier, the owner, and a pack of happy dogs made us feel welcome.
In the morning our guide, Salvador, took us to see the “Mushrooms,” animal life, some monoliths that resembled, um, male parts, tranquil Lago Arareko, Cusárare Falls, quiet villages, broad vistas, and the bridge over the Río Urique. It was a long and satisfying day with a very knowledgeable guide.
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Then it was time to return on the train to El Fuerte for a welcome rerun of the whole geological drama, but now with a better understanding of the area. The miraculous views never grew old, and the delicious gorditas at Divisadero were a special treat.
We spent that night in El Fuerte at Posada del Hidalgo, a considerably more upscale hotel this time, and enjoyed every minute of it. The entertainment was a caped and singing Zorro (although Zorro was a fictional character in old Spanish California), and the dinner and cold drinks were delicious.
After only one luxurious night, we had a long drive back to Hermosillo, passing fields of recently harvested ajonjoli (sesame) along the way. We made a quick stop at Libros y Más, a favorite place in Ciudad Obregón, for lunch. Then after dinner in Hermosillo, Marsha and Kent boarded a taxi to catch their all-night bus to the airport in Tucson. We were sad to see them go.
Back in Kino Bay, Sally displayed all her ‘loot’ from the trip, we had dinner with our friends Bev and Ray, and bought added stuff from even more of our Seri friends. Then it was time for Fun-With-Kayaks, and Sally gave Cousin Carolyn a few pointers on the subtleties required.
That night we lucked into (!?) the annual Mexican biker rally at the Casa Blanca Bar. There was plenty of noise and lots of rubber wasted in competitive ‘burn-offs’ as we watched over the bar railing. And Sally made friends with a ceramic parrot.
Then it was time to wind things down at the home of our good friend Gloria, with hearty drinks and a fine dinner. We had packed a lot into just two weeks. And another gorgeous sunset over the beautiful Sea of Cortez highlighted Tiburon Island and the distant coast of Baja California, a perfect ending to a wonderful and long-overdue visit by the cousins.
—PRW